The Ganges at Varanasi

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The Ganges at Varanasi

An ordinary day begins at the ghats. Just the regular pilgrims here at dawn for ritual bathing. The city addresses the river along an edge formed by temples, stone platforms and stairs leading into the water. Here the bustle and squabble of the city is behind you; the prospect is calm, quiet, serene. Everyone is focussed on the river.

Later, I climbed into a boat. We pushed off and drifted along, looking up from the ghats to the jumbled stone and stucco buildings, the oars quietly thunking in the rowlocks as the boatman steered his course.

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